Ancient Origins
It may surprise you to learn that drycleaning was practiced
in ancient Greece. This knowledge comes from the inclusion of
“dry cleaner” in a list of over 100 occupations inscribed on
Mycenaean clay tablets dated 1600 - 100 BC.
In those days, textile workers who washed and brushed newly
woven cloth to clean it, swell the fibers and “fill in” the
weave were known as “fullers.”
These tradesmen also knew how to remove stains from textiles
by applying lye, ammonia, or any one of a number of grease-absorbing
clays and soils known as “fuller’s earth.”
As the only other method of cleaning textiles in those days
was washing them in water, any method which did not use water
became known as “drycleaning.”
Non-Aqueous Solvents
For centuries, the methods of drycleaners were closely guarded
trade secrets. Then in 1716, a French book listed turpentine
as a “...special secret for removing grease and oil spots from
silk...Ӡ. Though the secret was out, the use of organic, non-aqueous
solvents for removing spots did not become widespread until
the 1800’s, when rise of the chemical industry made solvents
such as camphene, benzene, naphtha and gasoline available.
Legend has it that drycleaning became an industry when Frenchman
Jean-Baptiste Jolly found that the camphene from an overturned
lantern removed grease spots from a tablecloth. Whether the
legend is 100% accurate or not, Jolly did open the first drycleaning
plant in Paris about 1845. Plants soon opened throughout Europe
and at least one American plant was operating as early as 1879.
Using the highly flammable solvents of the day, the greatest
challenges faced by the fledgling industry were explosion and
fire.
First Drycleaning Machines
In response to the growing popularity of drycleaning, the first
power machinery for drycleaning was introduced by the Scottish
firm, Fullers of Perth, in 1869. This innovation made drycleaning
so much faster and so much more efficient that it quickly became
the method of choice for the general cleaning of certain garments,
not just for removing spots and stains.
Prior to this time, cleaning fine garments meant completely
disassembling the garments, washing each piece in hot water,
dying each piece to replace the watersoluble color that had
been washed, blocking each piece, then reassembling the entire
garment. As a result of the expense of this time-consuming process,
some garments were only cleaned once a year. But now, through
drycleaning, the same garments could be cleaned many times for
a fraction of the cost -- and drycleaning did not fade water-soluble
dyes or weaken fabrics the way washing in hot water did. It
made pressing and finishing easier as well. So, not surprisingly,
the popularity of drycleaning increased dramatically.
Non-flammable Solvents
In 1920, the first non-flammable cleaning solvent, trichloroethylene,
was introduced in Germany and the drycleaning profession became
a lot safer. Trichloroethylene is a very powerful solvent that
can damage synthetic fibers, but is still suitable for degreasing
industrial overalls, machinery and wool.
In the 1930’s tetrachloroethylene was introduced. Commonly known
as perchloroethylene or “perc,” tetrachloroethylene was much
gentler on synthetic fabrics and quickly became the industry
standard.
More recently, new silicon solvents have started to be introduced.
These new processes will provide all the benefits of dry cleaning
in a world of increasing environmental awareness.
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